Pu-erh tea cakes being compressed in a hydraulic press

How Pu-erh Tea is Made - Part 2

Broadly speaking, pu-erh tea production occurs in two distinct stages. The first stage is ‘rough processing’, which is the process of making loosely-finished tea (毛茶 máochá). The second stage is ‘fine processing’, which involves turning maocha into either raw pu-erh tea or ripe pu-erh tea.

In this article, we unpack what happens during fine processing  specifically in the context of making a raw (生 shēng) pu-erh cake. 

Read our earlier article on the first stage of pu-erh tea production (AKA rough processing) here.

 

7. Pressing tea cakes (饼茶 bǐng chá)

After huangpian has been removed, the leaves are ready to be pressed into cakes (饼茶 bǐng chá).

First, the roughly finished loose tea (毛茶 máochá) is weighed in a metal cylinder, often with an inner paper ticket (内飞 nèi fēi) nestled under the top layer of leaves. The cylinder is then placed over a jet of hot steam which softens the leaves and shrinks the bulk of their volume to a small, dense, and sticky pile.

Following this, the pile of shrunken sticky tea leaves is tipped into a cloth bag, wrapped into a tight ball, and tied together with a large knot on the outside. This tightly-wrapped ball of tea is then placed under a hydraulic press where it’s compressed into the traditional disc-like shape known as a pu-erh ‘cake’ or bing (饼 bǐng).

After a minute or so, the weight is removed and the freshly pressed cake is set aside on a rack to settle and dry. Once the cake is cool to the touch, the cloth wrapping is removed and the pressed cake is placed into a heated room to completely dry out over a couple of days.

Historically, pu-erh tea was compressed into cakes or other shapes for convenient transport and storage. These days pu-erh can be compressed into a variety of shapes depending on personal preference and intended use-case.

Other methods of pressing may be used to produce different shapes including bricks (砖茶 zhuānchá), bowl shapes (沱茶 tuóchá), decorative motifs (shapes of animals, fruits, etc) and many others. In these instances, producers will use steel plates or moulds to achieve the desired silhouette.


Pu-erh tea cakes being compressed in a hydraulic press

The cakes here are being formed through hydraulic press.

8. Wrapping tea cakes (包装 bāozhuāng)

After the cakes have dried sufficiently, they need to be wrapped. Traditionally, paper made from mulberry tree pulp is used, but these days there are hundreds of options for different types, thicknesses, colours, and treatments of paper.


First, the wrappers are stamped with the date of production of the tea. The cakes are then laid flat, front face down, and the paper is pinched and pulled toward to centre, with excess paper folded inside the hole left by the knotted fabric during pressing. The final corner is pulled and folded to seal up the cake, making a tidy package that protects the tea and makes it identifiable for sale and storage.

Sometimes a thin piece of tissue-paper is used as an extra first layer between the cake and the outer wrapper to provide more protection and longevity. Contemporary tea wrappers often feature unique designs, artworks, and branding in addition to key information about the specific tea, year of production, and origin.


In our experience, it is difficult to verify information provided on tea wrappers. Given the high prices of certain famous teas, brands, locations, and productions, there’s significant incentive for the creation of fake teas, re-wrapping lower-quality materials as counterfeit teas, and forging of famous productions.

Despite their various uses (or misuses) wrappers are not purely decorative, they play a crucial role in the preservation, transportation, and storage of tea. Regardless of the outer packaging, one thing that can never be faked is the quality of the materials when brewed.

A pu-erh tea cake being wrapped in paper by hand
Each cake is wrapped by hand. This is a raw pu-erh cake - ‘Parataxis’ from our 2023 Spring Collection - being wrapped in artwork by ERODUCTIONS.

9. Bamboo tongs (筒 tǒng)

After the individual cakes are pressed and wrapped, they are grouped in batches, usually of 5 for 200g cakes, or 7 for 357g cakes, where they will be wrapped in bamboo to form a single tong (筒 tǒng).

The cakes are traditionally encased in a sheet of bamboo and secured with cable-like strips made of hardened bamboo fibre. Custom text, logos, or other branding is then burned into the top of the tong by heating and applying a metal stamp. Alternatively, a sticker or stamp can also be used.

Groupings of 12 tongs are put together in a box or case, called a jian (件 jiàn).


A stack of pu-erh cakes being wrapped in bamboo to form a tong
The tong here is being secured by ties made out of bamboo.

10. Burning the tongs (筒 tǒng)

The final step of making pu-erh tea is burning the bamboo tongs (筒 tǒng). 

The bamboo tongs are quickly and carefully treated by fire to singe off any splintery fibres from the bamboo cable ties and to help dry the bamboo.

In addition to practical packaging requirements, firing is particularly important for hygiene too. The quick and repeated application of fire serves to sterilise the bamboo material of any organic matter including bacteria, microorganisms from the soil, insects, or wet bamboo pulp that may lead to mould growth during long-term storage and handling.


A group of bamboo wrapped pu-erh tea tongs being dried with a flame torch
Firing bamboo tongs requires agility, attention to detail, and practical expertise. Too much contact with the fire could burn or damage the bamboo wrapper; too little fire could result in a subtly moist tong that can soil the tea cakes inside if left in humid conditions.

Finishing up

After firing, the tongs may be placed in a heated room for a couple of days to ensure there’s no residual moisture. The bamboo tong is now fully finished: dry, sturdy, and clean – ready to be shipped, stored, and eventually, reopened for brewing.

This article concludes our two-part series on what's involved in pu-erh tea production. 

Further Reading

  1. Read more: How to Store and Age Pu-erh Tea
    How to Store and Age Pu-erh Tea

    How to Store and Age Pu-erh Tea

    One of the main appeals of pu-erh tea is its ability to age and transform over time, a process that requires careful control of storage conditions. This article explores how and why storing pu-erh works, what's involved, and how to do it at home.

    Read more
  2. Read more: How Pu-erh Tea is Made - Part 2
    Pu-erh tea cakes being compressed in a hydraulic press

    How Pu-erh Tea is Made - Part 2

    Broadly speaking, pu-erh tea production occurs in two distinct stages. This article outlines the final steps, also known as the 'fine processing' stage, of pu-erh tea production.
    Read more
  3. Read more: How Pu-erh Tea is Made - Part 1
    How Pu-erh Tea is Made - Part 1

    How Pu-erh Tea is Made - Part 1

    Turning fresh tea leaves into a drinkable pu-erh cake involves many labour intensive steps that need to be executed skilfully, and under time pressure. This article outlines the initial steps of pu-erh tea production, also known as the 'rough processing' of maocha.
    Read more